Written by Fred Maahs, Jr for Melange, Accessible Journeys
I grew up attending Catholic schools and spent many hours during my youth studying the Bible, the Holy Land, and the origins of my faith during religion class or in church. For me, Jerusalem and the birthplace of Christ were places that were held with absolute reverence. I never imagined that I would actually visit these holy places, especially after an accident that left me paralyzed from the chest down and using a wheelchair when I was scheduled to begin my first year at college.
I’ve always been a firm believer that things happen for a reason. The purpose of my trip to Israel is yet another affirmation for me that God has a plan for all of us.
Israel is working very hard to become a country that is accessible to everyone, and I was part of a group who visited as guests of the Israel Ministry of Tourism this past February. For many reasons, this would be a very special trip for me; informative, spiritual, and fun.
I flew from Philadelphia to Toronto, Canada on a small Air Canada Embraer jet. If you have bladder or skin issues, be sure to check layover times in Toronto. I had a five-hour layover, but you can easily spend some of that time at Pearson International Airport navigating the long Terminals and walkways from your arrival gate to the International Terminal. Plenty of accessible shops, restaurants, and kiosks lined the terminals. One thing to note for anyone with a mobility impairment, there are accessible dining spots located in the bars and restaurants but you have to move the heavy, steel chairs labeled with the international blue and white sign for disability.
When it was time for our departure, the gate agents easily and efficiently accommodated anyone needing special assistance and early boarding. Business Class seating for a 10 ½ hour flight is the only way to fly, especially when you have a disability. You have room to elevate your legs and this will help with circulation and swelling. You can recline your wide seat to a full sleep position. Great food and very helpful flight attendants make for a pleasant journey.
Arrival in Tel Aviv the next morning was easy and friendly. The ground crew and staff at the Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv could not have been more helpful. Make sure to book accessible transportation ahead of time. About an hour after landing, I arrived at The Prima Royal Hotel, located in a neighborhood setting in the heart of Jerusalem. My room on the 4th floor was a small, cozy space with some modern amenities. As a world-traveler with decades of experience, I can attest to the fact that one of the most important things to a traveler with a disability is the height of the bed, and although the bed-height in this hotel was a few inches lower than ideal, making transfer from bed to wheelchair challenging, and the bathroom was small with the commode situated next to a very small shower area, but the staff was very friendly and accommodating.
One of the things I immediately had to get used to, other than the uncommonly cold and rainy weather the first two days in Jerusalem, was Shabbat. I didn’t realize that just about everything closes down for Shabbat on Fridays in Jerusalem, one hour after sunset, for the next 24 hours – meaning no hot meals, modified elevator availability, basically nothing requiring electricity or gas was available during that time!
Saturday morning, I was greeted in the lobby by one of the friendliest, most knowledgeable people I have ever met, Eli Meiri. Eli would be our tour guide for the next five days. Once I was situated and secured in Eli’s lift-equipped van, we headed to the Israel Museum. We were able to see amazing exhibits, including the Model of Jerusalem from the Second Temple Period (time of Jesus), the Shrine of the Book (exhibiting the earliest biblical texts) displays from the first cities, the first human bones and graves, and many other beautiful and historically significant artifacts.
Everything in the museum was accessible – flat, easy, with wide tiled floors with ramps and lifts where necessary. You could easily spend a day or more here to see all of the exhibits.
The weather was not cooperating so we were unable to visit the historical Mehane Yehuda fruit and vegetable market in downtown Jerusalem, so we went back to the hotel for a short rest before dinner.
We enjoyed a fabulous meal at Adom Restaurant, located in the First Station, a renovated Turkish railway station. The restaurant had a warm, cozy vibe, lengthy wine list, and delicious food. The rest of First Station was easy to navigate situated in a mostly accessible location, although the parking lot could be repaved to ensure a safe, smooth walk to the Station.
Over the next few days, my tour mates, Stefano and Antonio from Italy, and Thomas from Germany, along with Eli as our guide, ventured into some of the most holy and sacred places in Jerusalem, then east to the Dead Sea and Masada, and finally to Tel Aviv and the beautiful Mediterranean Coast.
When we left Jerusalem with its lush trees and grass, we literally descended for miles and miles to the desert. On the mountainsides, we could see flocks of goats being herded by their shepherd and a smattering of settlements in the valleys. The beautiful green landscape of Jerusalem was quickly replaced with the tan and brown hues of the desert, also known as the Judean Wilderness. Jerusalem is about 800 meters above sea level and the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth, is 400 meters below sea level. We traveled south along a winding road with the Dead Sea shore to our east and the mountains and cliffs to our west. Incredible sights in every direction.
We passed farms along the way that contained rows of thousands of palm trees growing on many acres of desert sand. These palm trees originated from thousands of years ago and was once a crop grown in the Kingdom of Judea as a source of food, shelter, and shade. Unfortunately, the palms were destroyed by the Roman Empire in an attempt to ruin the Jewish economy and they all completely disappeared by 500 A.D. In 1963, an archeologist excavating Masada, a fortress built on a mountaintop by King Herod over 2,000 years ago, found the ancient seeds in a clay jar. The jar was kept at a university in Tel Aviv for 40 years until 2005 when a botanical researcher planted a seed to see what would happen. Now, thousands of these palms grow in forests producing dates, a popular fruit enjoyed around the world. Who knew?
As we continued along the road to Masada, we could see the mountains of Jordan climbing above the Dead Sea shore off in the distance, until we finally reached our destination – Masada!
